The Calgary food scene has always been a vibrant reflection of our city’s evolving identity. This past month, I’ve had the pleasure of exploring several new culinary destinations that have quietly transformed corners of our neighborhoods into gastronomic hotspots.
Walking through Kensington last Tuesday evening, I noticed the unmistakable buzz surrounding Ember & Ash, the new wood-fired concept from chef Michael Harrison. The restaurant occupies the former Pulcinella space, transformed now with warm copper accents and an open kitchen where you can watch chefs orchestrate meals around the massive hearth. Their charred leek appetizer with house-made ricotta might be the best $14 you’ll spend this month.
“We wanted to create something that honors Alberta’s agricultural roots while pushing boundaries,” Harrison told me as we chatted between the dinner rushes. “Everything touches fire in some way – it’s primal cooking with sophisticated execution.”
The restaurant sources about 70% of its ingredients from farms within 100 kilometers of Calgary, according to their sustainability statement, a commitment that’s increasingly resonating with local diners.
Over in Bridgeland, Toro Ramen has finally opened its doors after months of anticipation. Owner James Chen, formerly of Shokunin, has created a 28-seat space that feels transported directly from a Tokyo alleyway. The tonkotsu broth simmers for 36 hours – I watched customers close their eyes with that first spoonful, the universal signal of something transcendent happening.
“Calgary was ready for something more specialized,” Chen explained during a quieter afternoon service. “We’re not trying to be everything to everyone. We make three types of ramen and we make them perfectly.”
Their noodles are made in-house daily, and they’ve already instituted a no-takeout policy that’s caused some grumbling but speaks to their commitment to quality. By 5:30 each evening, there’s already a waitlist.
The most surprising addition might be Meadow, tucked into an unassuming strip mall in West Springs. Chef Sarah Coleman, who previously worked at River Café, has created what she calls “honest prairie cuisine” – a celebration of Alberta’s overlooked native ingredients and agricultural bounty.
I visited on a rainy afternoon when their sage-scented dining room provided perfect shelter. Their bison tartare with pickled saskatoon berries and cold-pressed canola oil was a revelation – familiar yet entirely new. Coleman has partnered with four indigenous foragers who supply everything from wild mushrooms to spruce tips.
“We’re trying to redefine what local cuisine means,” Coleman said. “Alberta has an incredible edible landscape that extends far beyond beef, though we celebrate that too.”
The Calgary Economic Development office reports that restaurant openings are up 12% compared to this time last year, suggesting our post-pandemic recovery continues to gain momentum.
Not everything is high-concept, thankfully. Lil’ Slice has opened in Sunalta, offering New York-style pizza by the slice until 3 AM on weekends. Owner Tony Migliarese, a Calgary native who spent five years working in Brooklyn pizzerias, has created the late-night spot many of us have been craving.
“I just wanted a place where you could grab a perfect slice after seeing a show at Broken City,” Migliarese said, pulling an enormous pepperoni pie from his deck oven. The space is deliberately no-frills – just four small tables and a counter – but the pizza achieves that mythical balance of crisp and chew that defines the New York style.
The Calgary Hospitality Association notes that we’re seeing more specialized, focused concepts opening rather than the jack-of-all-trades restaurants that dominated previous decades. This trend toward specialization signals a maturing food scene and more discerning diners.
For those seeking adventure, Mercado Negro in the Beltline offers contemporary Peruvian cuisine with Japanese influences. Chef Rodrigo Flores has created a sleek, dimly lit space where ceviche and tiradito are prepared with precision that honors both culinary traditions. Their pisco bar features over 20 varieties of the grape brandy, and their pisco sour might be the best I’ve had outside Lima.
“Calgary diners are increasingly sophisticated,” Flores mentioned as he sliced hamachi for the evening service. “We don’t need to water down flavors or concepts anymore.”
The restaurant employs three former Shokunin staff members, continuing a positive trend of culinary talent staying in Calgary rather than departing for Vancouver or Toronto.
What’s particularly encouraging is seeing these openings distributed throughout the city, not just concentrated downtown or in established food districts. This geographic diversity speaks to how Calgary neighborhoods continue developing their own distinct characters and amenities.
These new establishments join our rich tapestry of dining options just as summer festival season kicks into high gear. For visitors and locals alike, they offer fresh perspectives on what Calgary cuisine can be – rooted in our agricultural heritage but unafraid to evolve and surprise.
As our city continues to find its post-pandemic rhythm, these kitchens represent not just new dining options but new community gathering spaces. In uncertain economic times, that’s something worth celebrating – preferably over a great meal.
