I’ve walked past the empty windows of Deville Coffee on Stephen Avenue more times than I care to count this month. The once-bustling local favorite now sits vacant – another casualty in what’s becoming a troubling pattern across Calgary’s dining landscape.
The closure hit me particularly hard. I’d conducted countless interviews there, the staff knew my order before I reached the counter, and their blueberry scones fueled many of my deadline pushes over the years. But Deville isn’t alone in shuttering its doors this June.
Calgary’s restaurant scene has taken a significant hit with several beloved establishments closing permanently. The reasons vary – from lingering pandemic impacts to rising operational costs and changing consumer habits – but the impact on our city’s culinary identity is undeniable.
“We simply couldn’t make the numbers work anymore,” explained James Chen, former owner of Sukiyaki House, which closed mid-June after 17 years serving downtown Calgary. “Food costs have increased nearly 40% since 2019, while staffing remains challenging and unpredictable.”
According to data from the Alberta Restaurant and Foodservices Association, operational costs for restaurants have risen approximately 23% since 2021, while customer traffic remains below pre-pandemic levels in many areas of the city.
The closures span various neighborhoods and dining categories. In Kensington, the eclectic brunch spot Publick has ended its decade-long run. Owner Sarah Mendelsohn cited their inability to negotiate favorable lease terms as the final straw.
“Commercial rent in prime locations has become unsustainable for independent operators,” Mendelsohn told me during a conversation at her emptying restaurant. “We’re seeing a shift where only certain business models – primarily corporate chains with deep pockets – can afford to operate in these spaces.”
The impact extends beyond just the business owners. Calgary’s hospitality sector employs roughly 30,000 people, and these closures have left dozens of workers scrambling for new positions in an already competitive market.
Mark Williams, a chef at the recently closed Cardinale in the East Village, expressed his frustration: “This is the second restaurant closure I’ve experienced in three years. Each time, it gets harder to find stable work in the industry I love.”
Perhaps most concerning is the trend of long-standing establishments closing. Nanta Thai, a Calgary institution for 22 years, served its final pad thai in early June. Sukiyaki House’s closure after 17 years signals that even established restaurants with loyal followings aren’t immune to current market pressures.
City councilor Terry Wong, whose ward includes several affected areas, acknowledges the concerning pattern. “These restaurants represent more than just businesses – they’re gathering places that define neighborhood character and contribute to our city’s cultural fabric,” Wong noted during our phone conversation last week.
The Calgary Chamber of Commerce has been tracking these closures alongside broader economic indicators. Their quarterly report indicates restaurant failures in Calgary are currently outpacing openings by approximately 15% – the first time this has happened since 2009.
Industry experts point to multiple factors creating a perfect storm for restaurant operators. Inflation has dramatically increased food costs, while many Calgarians have reduced dining out frequency due to their own budget constraints.
“We’re seeing a fundamental shift in the restaurant ecosystem,” explains Dr. Jennifer Baxter, economist at Mount Royal University who specializes in urban economics. “The pandemic accelerated existing trends, but we’re now witnessing structural changes in how and where Calgarians choose to dine.”
Not all areas of the city are equally affected. Data from OpenTable shows reservation volumes in suburban neighborhoods have recovered better than downtown locations, suggesting changing work patterns continue to impact central dining destinations.
For those of us who value Calgary’s diverse culinary scene, these closures represent a concerning trend that extends beyond mere business statistics. Each shuttered restaurant takes with it unique flavors, gathering spaces, and pieces of our city’s character.
As I passed the former Cardinale space yesterday, workers were already removing signage. By next week, there will be little evidence it ever existed – except in the memories of those who enjoyed meals there over its eight-year run.
While new restaurants continue to open across Calgary, including several promising concepts in the Beltline and Mission areas, the net loss of established dining spots raises questions about the sustainability of independent restaurants in our city.
What remains clear is that Calgary’s restaurant industry is in a period of significant transition. For diners, the message is simple – if you value your favorite local establishments, now is the time to support them before they potentially join this growing list of closures.
